![]() ![]() I’ll switch between Parallax and Involvement in my 8’3 based on conditions, Parallax fin when I want more glide and less bite, or it’s pretty damn small, and I’ll throw the involvement in on a bigger day where I want a little more projection and hold outta turns. ![]() I think CJ mentions this method all over the place in videos and insta posts or whatever but I started doing it instead of measuring fin on board length and it’s a game-changer.Īnd for fins, I carry around an array everywhere I go. You cannot go wrong with any.įor fin sizing on my CJ’s or any single fin i always follow the yater method and measure it so 1/3rd of the fin hangs over edge when you line up the base of the fin (the part that extends out of the board, not the bottom of the truss that actually sits in the finbox, but where the truss connects to the fin). At the end of the day they are all beautifully functional sticks. The thing about CJ’s line of boards is they all complement eachother so well and have an overlap. Outlier is such a fun board but I think it’s better suited for getting more involved in bigger waves and getting slotted whereas the parallax handles that smaller wave range better. Parallax gets easier wave entry, better speed, turns laps, makes sections. I have an 8’3 “evo” CJND handshape from Engle however.Ĩ’3 parallax would absolutely be my go-to.
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